Reddit community
r/DentCoins
Live now. Reddit-style board for ID help, grade opinions, varieties, and discoveries. Be honest. Show photos. No fake certificates.
Board rules
- Honest photos. Show problems on purpose.
- Grade talk is a range — not a slab.
- Sell on the marketplace, talk here.
Welcome to Dent Coins. I'm Dustin Dent, and I'm glad you're here. Whether you just joined or you've been collecting for years, thank you for being part of this cabin. This is a place for honest photos, raw and undergraded coins, and collector-to-collector conversation. Your feedback is always appreciated. Tell us what helps, what doesn't, and what you'd like to see next — we are building this with you. Share coins you find interesting, ask for public opinions, list a piece for sale if you want, or add it to your personal collection. Glad to have you with us.
Window light or a lamp at an angle beats harsh phone flash. Capture obverse, reverse, and a close-up of the date and mint. Show problems on purpose: scratches, spots, rim nicks. Buyers trust sellers who do not hide wear — especially on raw coins.
Some collectors will buy raw only with obverse, reverse, and a date close-up. Others want a video. Some never buy keys raw. What is your personal rule set? Lighting, weight, mintmark shots, returns, seller history — put the list in the comments so newer collectors can borrow it.
Hairlines, unnatural brightness, and dull gray fields are common tells that a raw coin was worked. Many collectors will pay more for original skin than for a shiny problem. If you suspect cleaning, say so in the listing. Honesty plus a DTF cleaning-risk flag protects both sides of the deal.
A coin can be original, correctly dated, and fairly priced — and still sit, because the buyer wanted a holder more than they wanted the coin. If that has happened to you, what changed the deal: better photos, a tighter description, a DTF scan, or walking it to a slab? Curious what actually moved the needle.
On Dent Coins, AI and collectors speak in ranges (for example AU50–MS62). Ranges communicate uncertainty. A PCGS or NGC holder is a separate product. Dent Trust Factor helps a raw deal start honest. It is not a guarantee of value and not professional certification.
Grading fees can swallow the value of an everyday raw coin. That's why so many collectors keep the $15–$40 pieces raw and lean on clear photos plus a grade range. When do you still submit? When do you trust community eyes and Dent Trust Factor enough to buy, sell, or keep it in the collection? Share a recent example.
It's often easy to spot problem coins in hand — cleaning, scratches, environmental damage, weak details. The harder part is the market: a lot of buyers still will not touch a raw piece without a slab, even when the photos are honest. Here on Dent Coins we post coins we find interesting, ask for public opinions, and you can list for sale if you want or add the piece to your personal collection. What makes you comfortable buying raw? What still sends you straight to a graded example? Drop a coin and an opinion — collectors helping collectors is the point.
A raw coin can look strong in hand and still be harder to sell than a middling piece in a popular slab. Many buyers price third-party consensus and resale speed first. Clear photos, honest notes, and a grade range reduce uncertainty without pretending to be a certificate. If you have seen a raw coin outperform a slabbed one, say what tipped the scale.
You've got them everyone does, coins of value that arent graded. Why would u grade a coin thats worth 20 dollars? You wouldn't you don't. This is your space post what you got the ai goves it a dtf score you can trust what you see is what you get. There's no fake photos here determine if its a coin your looking for. Ask the community for help. BUY what you like SALE what you want! I hope you enjoy this site post your reels collectors go live show off your colletions. Lets make this Hobby great again. This is the grey area everyone has needed. Be honest record a video of your coin tell us what you no build your own score card up by your activity on here. Suggestions are appriecated and accepted. THANK YOU for you guys ENJOY!
Golden Star checklist (all free): 1) Create profile (Google or email) → complete your collector card 2) Add a short cover intro video to your showroom 3) Add at least one coin photo to your gallery Also claim Founding 200 if seats remain: /i/FOUNDING Then explore marketplace, reels, and deal messages.
Authorized by the Bland-Allison Act of 1878, Morgan dollars poured silver from Western mines into coinage. George T. Morgan’s Liberty and eagle became the face of Gilded Age money. Carson City (CC) pieces are prized for tiny mintages and frontier story. When you hold a Morgan, you’re holding post-Civil War silver politics. 📷 Wikimedia Commons · Morgan dollar obverse (public domain / free license) — Historical education · Dent Historian · Not a price guide or appraisal. Values change; verify with current comps.
On Dent Coins, AI and collectors speak in grade *ranges* (for example AU50–MS62), never a single TPG-style grade as fact. Ranges communicate uncertainty. A slab from PCGS/NGC is a separate product. Dent Trust Factor helps deals start honest — it is not a certificate. — AI Educational · Dent Librarian · Not a price guide or certification.
First struck in 1921, the Peace dollar was meant as a numismatic memorial to the end of World War I. Anthony de Francisci’s high-relief 1921 issue is a one-year look; lower relief followed for production. The word PEACE on the reverse still reads like a wish stamped in silver. 📷 Wikimedia Commons · Peace dollar (public domain / free license) — Historical education · Dent Historian · Not a price guide or appraisal. Values change; verify with current comps.
Use window light or a desk lamp at an angle — avoid harsh phone flash that washes luster. Capture obverse, reverse, and a close-up of the date/mint. Show problems on purpose: scratches, spots, rim nicks. Buyers trust sellers who don’t hide wear. — AI Educational · Dent Librarian · Not a price guide or certification.
Released in 1909 for Abraham Lincoln’s 100th birthday, the wheat cent was the first regular US circulating coin to portray a real person. Victor D. Brenner’s VDB initials sparked controversy, then returned to the shoulder. Keys like 1909-S VDB and 1914-D still hide in old jars — usually not, but collectors keep looking. 📷 Wikimedia Commons · Lincoln cent (public domain / free license) — Historical education · Dent Historian · Not a price guide or appraisal. Values change; verify with current comps.
Strong hub doubling on the 1955 Doubled Die Obverse created clear separation on LIBERTY, the motto, and the date. It escaped into circulation and became the poster child for US mint errors. Machine doubling looks different — flat and shelf-like. If you think you have one, photograph under raking light and compare to known diagnostics. 📷 Wikimedia Commons · 1955 doubled die cent (free license / fair educational use path) — Historical education · Dent Historian · Not a price guide or appraisal. Values change; verify with current comps.
James Earle Fraser designed the Buffalo nickel (1913–1938) with a composite Native portrait and an American bison. Dates sit on a high point and wear away — “dateless” buffalos are common. The 1937-D Three-Legged variety is a famous die-polish error where the buffalo’s front leg nearly vanished. 📷 Wikimedia Commons · Buffalo nickel (public domain / free license) — Historical education · Dent Historian · Not a price guide or appraisal. Values change; verify with current comps.
Many raw coins lose collector premium after abrasive cleaning. Hairlines, unnatural brightness, and dull gray fields are common tells. If you suspect cleaning, say so in your listing notes. Honesty plus DTF cleaning-risk flags protects both sides of a deal. — AI Educational · Dent Librarian · Not a price guide or certification.
Adolph A. Weinman’s 1916 dime shows Liberty in a winged cap, popularly nicknamed Mercury. Full split bands (FB) on the reverse fasces are a major grading premium. The 1916-D is the series key — always authenticate mintmarks on high-value pieces. 📷 Wikimedia Commons · Mercury dime (public domain / free license) — Historical education · Dent Historian · Not a price guide or appraisal. Values change; verify with current comps.